Express Visit to Riga

Something that I didn’t expect to do in my life was to take a tour in a different language. But here we are. I joined a Polish tour with my friend (who was my translator) as it got us from where we were to where we wanted to go. It was cost effective and also easy because it was all planned.

It was a bus tour that would take us through Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, a day trip to Helsinki and then back. We didn’t stop in Vilnius in Lithuania so I won’t be writing about Lithuania but I will write about Latvia (Riga first)!

Riga is marvellous. When there are so many art nouveau buildings around, each with a unique façade, it was hard not to be impressed. Riga is said to have the highest concentration of art nouveau architecture anywhere in the world. Easily accessible by river, Riga has been a centre for trade since the Middle Ages. Riga has been ruled by the Holy Roman Empire, Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth, the Swedish and Russian Empires. As well as being occupied by the Soviet Union and Nazi Germany. Latvia was declared independent in 1991.

We started our morning with a walk through Albert Street, a street well known for all the art nouveau architecture. Each building was different from the next in colour, design and features. The details and embellishments on some of these buildings are just amazing and left me with with great admiration of the craftsmanship. It’s something one can probably only dream of, living in an apartment like this although most of these were offices, stores or Government buildings.

We then piled back onto our bus and went to Vecriga, which is the original Old Town for a walk around. Our first stop was of course, the market square Rathausplatz Riga which houses the Town Hall and the House of the Black Heads. This building was built in the 14th century by the Brotherhood of Blackheads (a group of unmarried merchants, shipowners and foreigners). They were originally a military organisation but survive to this day as a social organisation.

The Swedish Gate is part of the medieval wall that enclosed Riga and is the only gate left. It also allowed access to the barracks when Riga was under Swedish rule. Part of the wall still remains nearby here however most of the wall is gone.

After our brief walking tour and then had some free time to eat and wonder. Unfortunately, in my usual style, I was too hungry to take a picture of the food first but we ate at LIDO Alus seta and tried the famous Latvian grey peas and dark rye bread dessert (Rupjmaizes kārtojums). Rye has been grown in Latvia for over 1000 years and dark rye bread is a popular staple in the Latvian diet due to it’s high nutrition. The dark rye bread dessert is similar to a trifle. I was told that this was a healthy dessert and quick to make for children whilst also being good for them (and adults too). I’ll have more please!

We were served dark rye bread in our hotel and let me tell you, as an avid dark rye bread fan prior to my visit, I felt like I was in bread heaven. You’ll notice immediately that the Latvian version is more dense and therefore heavier than your usual bread (and definitely more than the ones we have in Australia). Caraway seeds are added which gives it this different aroma. It also has a more bread like texture than pumpernickel. Gosh, I could do with some now.

Speaking of rye, another popular Latvian beverage which is made from dark rye is Kvass! It’s a carbonated fermented drink that I learnt is also popular in neighbouring north eastern European countries. I got some at a supermarket and we brought some back to Poland (and continued looking for it in Poland).

The streets were not as busy as other more popular cities in Europe so it was pleasant to walk around. There were plenty of courtyards, outdoor dining and cobblestone streets to explore. It was pretty, not overly touristy and seemed to be not yet be an overly expensive place to visit.

As this was one of those city hopping trips, I hope that I will return one day to Riga to be able to explore more. It’s a city that is so rich in history that a few more days are needed. Not only to drink more kvass and eat more dark rye bread but there are a few museums that I would like to visit too. These are:

  • Riga Art Nouveau
  • Latvian National Museum of Art
  • Museum of the Occupation of Latvia
  • Museum of Decorative Arts and Design
  • Museum of the History of Riga and Navigation
  • National History Museum of Latvia
  • The Corner House- former KGB headquarters.

20 thoughts on “Express Visit to Riga

  1. It’s an unexpected way to visit these countries. I hope to be able to do a road trip through the Baltic States again next year, because despite their small size, these countries contain many interesting places.

      1. We spent 2 days in Riga itself and that gave us time to explore the museums too. And then the third day we visited Cesis Castle, and then the 4th we visited Rundale Palace. 3 would probably be enough for most with just one of the day trips.

  2. Taking a tour in a language you don’t know can be a challenge, but it’s good you had a translator! I visited Riga four years ago, and I found its Art Deco architecture beautiful. It’s a charming capital, and I remember spending my time enjoying their numerous cafés in town. Glad you had fun in the Baltics!

  3. Oh Sophie, Riga looks so fabulous. I very nearly took the ferry there from Sweden, but went to Talliin instead. Now based on this, I want to go to Riga. I was initially put off by the suggestion that there are so many brothels there. But I have a Latvian friend and for a time attended Latvian club celebrations. There gingerbread and food is amazing. And yet, I have not tasted Kvass. What does it taste like?

    1. I didn’t notice any brothels there (maybe it was pointed out in polish ahaha). That’s great that you’ve been to some Latvian club celebrations. I imagine you might have more insight into the culture than I do. It’s sweet but not as much as the usual soft drinks and tastes like bread. Easy to drink and I found it was very good for hot days when you’ve been sweating a lot.

  4. A few years ago I did the Baltic countries and fell in love with charming Riga! The Old Town is simply marvellous. I’m the same with food, I always forget to take the picture, always being too damn starved 😉 I was able to visit both Riga’s Art Nouveau Museum and the National Art Museum, definitely pearls I hope you can cover on a future visit to the city!

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